Introduction
Kabukicho is widely known as one of Tokyo’s most vibrant entertainment districts, but tucked away just off Meiji Street is a pizzeria that feels far removed from the surrounding bustle.
In this article, we visit Pizzeria LUMEN, a well-established Neapolitan pizzeria in Kabukicho that has been serving carefully crafted pizzas since 2006. We share our experience, from the atmosphere and menu to the Margherita pizza and signature meatball spaghetti.
Pizzeria LUMEN: A Neapolitan Pizzeria in Kabukicho
Pizzeria LUMEN opened in Kabukicho in 2006 as a restaurant specializing in authentic Neapolitan pizza.
The restaurant is located about a five-minute walk from Higashi-Shinjuku Station, just inside Kabukicho, one street off Meiji Street. A well-known ramen shop, “Aji Ichiban! Kyushu Ramen Hakatakko Shinjuku,” is nearby and serves as a useful landmark.
Due to its popularity, reservations are required and are accepted by phone only. We visited on a weekday evening with an advance reservation.
Interior and Menu at Pizzeria LUMEN
The restaurant is compact, with 19 seats in total, featuring table seating near the entrance and a kitchen with counter seating toward the back.
Wine bottles and artwork decorate the walls, creating a casual yet atmospheric space that makes it easy to forget you are in Kabukicho. From the counter seats, diners can watch the chef prepare and bake pizzas in the oven.
Pizzeria LUMEN does not offer set courses. Instead, all dishes are ordered à la carte. When the restaurant is busy, guests may be asked to place multiple orders at once, from appetizers through pizza.
Selected Menu Items
- Ehime Sea Bream Carpaccio with Salad – ¥1,320
- Iwate Sasuke Pork Terrine – ¥1,320
- Fresh Burrata with Fruit Tomatoes – ¥2,200
- Crispy Duck Leg Confit – ¥1,650
- Pizza Margherita – ¥2,200
- Pizza Bismarck – ¥2,750
- Pizza Quattro Formaggi – ¥3,080
- Pizza Tartufo – ¥6,600
- Spaghetti with Polpette (Meatballs) – ¥1,430
Margherita Pizza and Meatball Spaghetti
We began the meal with a glass of sparkling wine and Italian pickled young peaches. The peaches were mild in acidity, seedless, and pleasantly firm in texture.
An appetizer of Ehime sea bream carpaccio followed, served with vegetables and a dressing made with horseradish. The balance between the fish, vegetables, and dressing worked especially well, and the addition of salmon roe added a sense of richness.
We also ordered white asparagus wrapped in pancetta and baked in a stone oven. The asparagus was thick and sweet, with a precise cooking temperature that paired well with the saltiness of the pancetta.
Next came the house-made gnocchi with gorgonzola cream sauce. The gnocchi had a clean bite, and the blue cheese sauce was rich without being overly heavy, making it an excellent match for dry white wine.
For pizza, we chose the Margherita, made with naturally fermented dough. Pizzeria LUMEN limits production to just 19 pizzas per day. We added buffalo milk bocconcini mozzarella, flown in from Naples.
The mozzarella was rich and fresh, with a clean finish that paired beautifully with the tomato sauce and basil. The dough was thin overall, with crisp, aromatic edges, showcasing careful control of fermentation and baking.
To finish, we ordered the spaghetti with polpette (meatballs), a tomato-based pasta inspired by Lupin III: The Castle of Cagliostro. The meatballs were simple yet flavorful, working equally well on their own or with the pasta. This dish paired especially well with red wine.
While pizza is the restaurant’s signature, the pasta stood out as equally memorable.
Final Thoughts
Pizzeria LUMEN is operated by a small team of just two people handling both the kitchen and service, yet the efficiency and attentiveness were impressive. Empty glasses were noticed quickly, and wine recommendations were offered at just the right moments.
It is rare to find a restaurant where the pizza, other dishes, and wine are all consistently excellent, while still feeling relaxed and unpretentious. Given its popularity, advance reservations are strongly recommended.
Looking for the original article in Japanese?
Click here to view the Japanese version on Daily Shinjuku.
https://daily-shinjuku.tokyo/2025/02/09/kabukicho-pizzeria-lumen/
